Prequalification vs. Pre-Approval vs. DU Approval
Three terms every buyer hears, and sellers can tell the difference. Here's which approval level actually wins offers.
Read the guideThe stuff your lender glosses over. Terms, timelines, and decisions explained straight.
Buying a home is likely the largest financial decision you'll make. These guides skip the filler and explain how mortgages actually work, from your first pre-approval to the closing table.
Three terms every buyer hears, and sellers can tell the difference. Here's which approval level actually wins offers.
Read the guideIt depends on your timeline, risk tolerance, and where rates are heading. Here's how to think through it.
These are the questions buyers ask us most before they apply. Clear answers, no jargon.
Pre-qualification is a quick, unverified estimate of what you might borrow based on information you self-report. Pre-approval is a verified review of your income, credit, and assets that results in a conditional commitment from a lender. Sellers treat them very differently. A pre-approval letter carries real weight in a competitive offer. Pre-qualification generally does not.
It depends on the loan type. FHA loans allow scores as low as 580 with 3.5% down, or as low as 500 with 10% down. Conventional loans typically require a 620 minimum, though better rates kick in as your score climbs. VA and USDA loans don't have a hard minimum set by the government, but most lenders require at least 580 to 620. DSCR and jumbo loans generally require higher scores. The best move is to pull your actual credit and have a loan officer look at the full picture.
The 20% rule is a myth for most buyers. FHA loans require 3.5% down for qualifying credit scores. Conventional loans go as low as 3% for first-time buyers. VA and USDA loans require zero down payment for qualified borrowers. Florida also has down payment assistance programs that can cover part or all of your down payment. The right amount depends on your loan type, credit score, and what programs you qualify for.
Your debt-to-income ratio, or DTI, is the percentage of your gross monthly income that goes toward debt payments including your future mortgage. Each loan type has its own DTI guidelines, and lenders have some flexibility based on compensating factors like strong credit or larger reserves. DTI is one of the most important numbers in your mortgage file, and it's one of the easiest to improve before you apply. Your loan officer can tell you exactly where your file stands.
Underwriting is the process where a lender's underwriter reviews your complete file and decides whether to approve, suspend, or deny your loan. They verify your income and employment, review your credit history, evaluate the property appraisal, and check that the loan meets all program guidelines. You may receive a conditional approval, meaning the loan is approved pending additional documents or clarifications. Responding to conditions quickly is what keeps closing timelines on track.
The interest rate is the cost of borrowing the principal loan amount, expressed as a percentage. APR, or annual percentage rate, includes the interest rate plus most fees and costs associated with the loan, making it a broader measure of what you're actually paying. When comparing loan offers, APR gives you a more complete picture than the interest rate alone. A loan with a lower rate but higher fees may have a higher APR than a loan with a slightly higher rate.
PMI, or private mortgage insurance, is required on conventional loans when your down payment is less than 20%. It protects the lender, not you. The cost varies based on your loan amount, credit score, and down payment. You can avoid PMI by putting 20% down, using a VA or USDA loan (which don't require it), or by requesting cancellation once your equity reaches 20% based on your original purchase price. FHA loans have their own version called MIP, which works differently and has its own rules for removal.
A rate lock is a lender's commitment to hold a specific interest rate for a set period while your loan processes. Rates move daily based on bond markets and economic data. Locking early protects you from rate increases but means you won't benefit if rates drop. The right time to lock depends on your closing timeline and your risk tolerance. Your loan officer can walk you through current market conditions when you're ready.
Timeline varies by loan type, lender, and how quickly all parties submit documents. At 14 Days To Close, our goal is to close in 14 days or less when the file is clean and documents come in fast. What drives speed most is how quickly you respond to document requests and how straightforward your income situation is. Self-employed buyers and complex files take longer, but we're built to move faster than a traditional bank.
For most loan types you'll need your last two years of W-2s or tax returns, your two most recent pay stubs, your two most recent bank statements, a government-issued ID, and information about any other assets or debts. If you're self-employed, you'll need two years of personal and business tax returns. The exact list varies by loan type and your specific situation. We'll send you a personalized document checklist once you start your application.
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